Cycle across France 2008
Home of the Pay and Hibberd clans
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Liz says...I wake up feeling good and do a u-turn. Mal and Nixter are up for it. Caretaker is nice and we chat over breakfast about Chinese earthquake, the death of the traditional French baker and other things. We leave with 1½ baguettes, 2 bananas, orange, apple, 2 tomatoes, 2 slices of cake, ½ croissant and 2 cans of Ice Tea. Climb to Col de Perjuret 730m to 1040m on time and feeling good. Mont Aiguoual 14km away.
Col de Perjuret with just a 500m ascent and 14km to go
First stretch is unbelievably hard. Very steep but not quite in stirrups. We quickly realise that our food is insufficient and then we set ourselves 2km targets using the "D" markers to help us mentally and to reduce overeating. 8km away we go through deserted collection of buildings (Cabrillac) which had offered some hope of refuelling and climb into mist and cloud layer of Mont Aigoual which is now visible. Mist gets thicker and as we near top and at 3km away strong headwind and steep climbs force gritted teeth. "This is what I've trained for. I've done wind. I've done steep. I can do it", I tell myself. Still carrying one of Mal's panniers and the challenge is tough. Visibility is sometimes down to 5 metres. Reach top with Mal and Nixter. Cold. Without food. 12km to nearest town. Approach restaurant as 3 guys who see our eyes depart in their cars. The restaurant is closed. Cold. Without food. 12km to the nearest town. I rage "Fuckers! How fucking irresponsible!" as we realise the guys in the cars must work there. Worrying about hyperthermia?? we put on all our tops and bottoms and overshoes. For me that's 2 t-shirts, 3 jumpers, 1 shirt, 1 windproof waterproof jacket, 1 hi-vis vest, thermal leggings, double layer waterproof trousers and wooly hat.
The only bit of bad weather on the trip. And to think we could have seen the Med.
We descend through the mist turning at every treelined hairpin with visibility 10-30m and fluctuating. It is Mount Gloom, Mount Doom and then the rain starts - light at first then so heavy that constant blinking barely clears away the rain. Eventually reach L'Esperou and the chef has left the crêperie - stock up on chocolate and hot milk then descend to Valleraugue. Another 27km. The damp starts to penetrate the zip seam so we stop midway down and make 2 makeshift waterproof vests for Nixter and Mal out of rubble sacks. Risk of hyperthermia?? By time we reach Valleraugue I'm cold then realise I don't feel too hot. Bit of bonk? Sleep, have meal then sleep again. We did it.
Mal says...We stayed at:
Les Bruyères
Rue André Chamson
30570 Valleraugue
Tel: 04 67 82 20 06
Web: http://www.logis-de-france-gard.com
Nix says...Another tough day but not as tough as yesterday. This morning we weren't even sure whether or not we were going to cycle but the idea of spending all day at La Cascade which was freezing - only gave us two blankets each and I had to wear my thermal, jumper and sacred evening trousers to keep warm. Felt worst I've felt last night - face burning, body absolutely exhausted, nauseous. We'd just done so much excercise, pushed my body - maybe not to its limit - but as far as it's every been pushed without a doubt. This morning we had breakfast and - guess - bread and coffee - at gite d'etape, then started our final major ascent. The first part was quite easy. I felt fit. The higher we got though, the mistier it got and we were running low on food.
Climbing towards Mont Aigoual and into bad weather
Liz took his role as Chef de File very seriously - rationing food out. Mal was paranoid about having another episode so she didn't stop eating. I thought I didn't need much but then developed a really sickening hunger feeling and for the first time began to worry about whether the food we had would get us to the top. 12km from the top, Liz stopped at 2km intervals (indicated by stone bollards) and waited for me and Mal to catch up to see how we were doing and what food we needed. I as at the stage when I even ate my apple core to make sure I didn't waste anything. Felt really good though for most of that 12km section. The mist was so thick we could barely see 2-3 metres in front of us. Got to the top - desperate for the restaurant - only to find it all shuttered up - even the damn public toilettes! To cap it, the staff were just leaving in their cars. 3 cars - one each - and they saw us, caught our eye, diverted theirs, smiled at each other and they were off. We were livid - Liz especially - rightly he said it was completely irresponsible. So we weed on their terrace, just to make a point, put on practically ever layer of top clothing we had and our waterproofs and began our descent. It was freezing and pouring wth rain, and the fog seemed to be thickening. We wound ourselves down, moving fingers as they pressed the brake to try to stave off hypothermia. When we got to the first village, we were directed to a crêperie by the office du Tourisme. As we pulled up - the sign said 'ouvert' - we were so excited. Liz said it was going to be the best crêpe we'd ever eaten - but I went in and the guy said "Terminé". Shattered. We bought 9 bars of chocolate from the bar 2 hot milks and a coffee (20Euro!!) - paid by card and carried on our descent. The rain was coming down harder, we really were freezing cold. Liz emptied the foodbag (heavy duty plastic) and made me and Mal put them on. Made holes for the head and arms. He really was worried at this point. Finally we arrived at Valleraugue, 20km short of our intended destination and found a hotel.
wet shoes in a Valleraugue window
Me and Mal had a laughing fit in the office du tourisme because we looked ridiculous! But overall we were cold, hungry and so relieved that we'd made it somewhere dry. Missing Redmond so much - so much. I just want to be with him now.
Day 13 Meyrueis to Valleraugue: 50 kilometres/31 miles, 0945h-1600h, m up m down, 8 km/h (with breaks)
Suggested changes: Make sure you get to the restaurant on the top of Mont Aiguoal by 1.30pm otherwise it'll be shut. We didn't try the road from L'Esporou to Le Vigan which could be pleasant. Le Vigan gets a good write up in the Rough Guide and we had originally planned to go there, but indirectly via Valleraugue.
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Suggested changes: Make sure you get to the restaurant on the top of Mont Aiguoal by 1.30pm otherwise it'll be shut. We didn't try the road from L'Esporou to Le Vigan which could be pleasant. Le Vigan gets a good write up in the Rough Guide and we had originally planned to go there, but indirectly via Valleraugue.
View Larger Map
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last updated July 16 2010 © lee hibberd
last updated July 16 2010 © lee hibberd